Duxelles
The way to deal with a glut, and the way to use imperfect specimens.
Why
Finely chopped mushrooms cooked slowly with shallot until almost dry become a dense paste that keeps in the fridge for a week and in the freezer for months. It is the most efficient possible use of a large or slightly ragged haul, and unlike drying it does not care about the shape of what went in.
How
- 01Chop very fine, by hand or in short pulses in a processor. Over-processing gives a wet purée.
- 02Sweat shallot in butter, add the mushrooms, and cook over medium heat, stirring, until all the liquid has gone and the mixture is dark and dense. This takes considerably longer than it looks like it should.
- 03Finish with a splash of sherry or Madeira and reduce it away, plus thyme and a good deal of black pepper.
- 04Freeze in an ice cube tray, then bag the cubes. One cube transforms a risotto, an omelette or a sauce.
What this step actually needs
What this step needsCast iron or carbon steel pan$24.99Some links here are Amazon affiliate links. If you buy through one we earn a commission at no extra cost to you, and it never changes what we recommend. Prices were read from Amazon when this page was built and will have moved since.
Species this matters most for
The other techniques
Brush, do not wash
Clean with a brush and a damp cloth, not under a tap.
The dry sauté
Hot dry pan first. Fat only after the water has gone.
Cook it properly, and cook it through
Eight to ten minutes minimum, and longer for anything thick.
Drying
The default preservation method, and for some species an improvement.